Every year, the fêtes, feathers, and festivities of Carnival season draw thousands of locals and visitors to the Caribbean islands. What many believe started in Trinidad and Tobago in the 18th century has grown into a shared cultural tradition across the region. Although Carnival celebrations vary from island to island, the joy remains similar to that of the enslaved Africans who sought a brief escape amid sorrow (and exclusion). Over 200 years later, this cultural phenomenon — and the spectacular display of sights and sounds — continues to celebrate Caribbean culture, cuisine, creativity, communities, and rhythms.
Although I had always wanted to attend a Carnival, I also felt a subtle sense of overwhelm. The idea of nonstop celebrations, no sleep, and deciding whether to join a masquerade band or watch from the sidelines sounded fun, but also required more planning than I was used to. So, when the chance to attend my first Carnival in St. Thomas — an island I know well — came up, I knew it was the perfect moment to move from “not yet” to “novice.”
Here’s what you should expect as a first-time St. Thomas Carnival attendee, including how to prepare and what to avoid, based on my personal trial-and-error experience.
Coming Home To Carnival
My love of St. Thomas started nearly 17 years ago when I decided to embark on an exchange student adventure. Ahead of the fall semester of my junior year, I applied and was accepted into the National Student Exchange Program. Having no clue what I was signing up for, but still willing to follow through with my desire for something new, I swapped South Carolina (USC) for St. Thomas, bound for my top school choice: the University of the Virgin Islands.
My time on the island marked many firsts. It was my first extended time outside of the mainland U.S. (although I was still technically in the country). I got a dose of what makes HBCUs so special, from the educators to simply hanging around campus, and distinctly remember where I was when we learned the U.S. had elected its first Black president (our beloved Barack Obama). Spending those four months on the island as a college student changed my life.
I’ve since returned several times for couples’ trips, solo vacations, and even a wedding. But, after 17 years, the stars aligned to deliver a chance to head back to the island affectionately known as Rock City. I was confident about my familiarity with the destination, even though some things have changed over the years, so it felt right to have my first Carnival experience in St. Thomas.
What To Expect At St. Thomas Carnival
St. Thomas has celebrated Carnival for more than 100 years, and much of the song, dance, and revelry that originally inspired it remain core elements of present-day festivities. Each spring, typically in April, the island hosts a month-long series of events, often starting with pageants and calypso shows. The vibes reach their peak during the final week, with locals from neighboring islands and visitors from around the world descending on the island for round-the-clock fêtes (read: parties) and signature events like J’ouvert, the Village, and Parade Day.
With fêtes that start before dawn, and others that last long enough to welcome the sunrise again, there’s always something to get into. On the final weekend of Carnival, early Thursday morning, J’ouvert Sunrise is the opening highlight, which begins at dawn. Carnivalgoers gather before sunrise to march down the road to the sounds of soca and calypso bands and DJs while getting doused with colorful paint and powder, heading toward the waterfront and ultimately landing at the Village.
The Village is, in many ways, the headquarters of St. Thomas Carnival celebrations. During Carnival, it takes over Fort Christian Parking Lot in Charlotte Amalie, with food, drink, and souvenir vendors surrounding the perimeter. Each night, the Village highlights a genre of Caribbean music through a lineup of legendary and rising music acts. This year, headlining legends like Beenie Man and Shabba Ranks held down Reggae Night, while Farmer Nappy and Kes the Band brought plenty of energy to the stage on Soca Night. The best part of the Village is that it is entirely free, allowing residents and visitors to enjoy a complimentary element of Carnival, in addition to other events that come at a cost.
Finally, Parade Day takes place on the concluding Saturday of Carnival events. The parade draws thousands of people in the streets dressed in ornate and vibrant-colored costumes, which is what many think of when referencing thoughts of Carnival. Participating in the parade is a bucket-list experience, but you can also enjoy the day as an onlooker, with many people setting up tents and chairs along the parade route.
Pro Tip: For the ultimate fête before the fête, check out Soka Elements. This “detty fête” kicks off at 1 a.m. and ends at 7 a.m., before J’ouvert Sunrise, so it’s suitable for those who are ready to have the messiest, most unforgettable time of their life.
How To Plan For The Full Experience
During Carnival, the energy in St. Thomas is so enticing that you’ll forget you haven’t had a proper night’s rest in days. This makes pre-trip planning nearly impossible to skip if you want to have a good (prepared) time. The Caribbean heat, staying mindful of hydration, and navigating the streets from sunup to sundown can be a lot. Here’s how to pull off a successful Carnival experience in St. Thomas:
Before Your Trip
The biggest factors before touching down are your accommodations, flights, and deciding whether or not to join a masquerade band (mas band). Convenient lodging is limited, so it’s best to book early — at least four months in advance — to secure a hotel or short-term rental that isn’t too far from Carnival happenings. The most popular hotels with easy access to the waterfront include The Westin St. Thomas Beach Resort & Spa, Marriott’s Frenchman’s Cove, and The Pink Palm Hotel.
Planning four to six months ahead also gives you plenty of time to select a mas band, of which there are more than a dozen (I played with Ultimate Legacy). To “play” in a mas band essentially means to participate in their troupe during Parade Day. Although it’s optional, costumes are available for men and women, and it’s the pinnacle of Carnival festivities. Getting dolled up in brightly-colored makeup and costumes that can be as concealing or revealing as you choose is unlike anything you’ll experience anywhere else, so it’s worth considering at least once. Just be sure to select a costume that you can comfortably wear for several hours and miles of walking “on di road.”
Costumes can range from around $500 without a backpack (the decorative piece worn on your back, often made of feathers, sequins, and beads), or upwards of $1,000 or more with one. In Ultimate Legacy’s case, its online form made the process super simple, and their team even delivered our costume kits to our hotel.
Before traveling, I also highly recommend investing in your Carnival prep kit. Ultimate Legacy provided us with a water bottle, electrolyte hydration packs, and other essentials, but it’s always good to be prepared for the unexpected. In my experience, I ended up in a “wet fete,” which is when the party goes on despite rain showers, so a waterproof case and pouch would have been handy. Creating a Carnival essentials checklist is a wise choice to ensure you can keep up with the pace of activities.
During St. Thomas Carnival
Once you’ve settled in on the island, what to do, where to eat, and how to get around are usually at the top of your mind. Carnival celebrations can affect factors like street closures and the hours of operation for local businesses. Above any advice I could give you for your trip, the best way to enjoy Carnival is to go with the flow.
When traveling around St. Thomas during Carnival, the easiest choice is to arrange private transportation. Renting a car isn’t advisable because parking is very limited near the waterfront, and driving in unfamiliar areas during this busy time can be more trouble than it’s worth. Hiring a private driver is a higher-cost but dependable option that offers you the most control over your movements. Alternatively, taxis are widely available, especially at hotels and resorts. Those staying in short-term rentals should consider befriending a taxi driver so they can coordinate rides directly.
Luckily, there is no lack of food and drinks during Carnival in St. Thomas. Most hotels and resorts offer some dining options, but the Village is the top spot for street food favorites, such as Johnny Cakes and patties. For more upscale restaurant options, Cutlass & Cane, Indigo 4, and Blue 11 are three Black-owned restaurants located in Yacht Haven Grande, just a 5-minute drive from the Village.
From J’ouvert to Parade Day, pacing yourself and embracing island time are the best ways to approach your Carnival experience. St. Thomas is a safe destination, but it’s still wise to stay cautious, just like you would when traveling anywhere. The biggest mistake for first-time Carnival attendees is dehydration, which can affect even those not drinking alcohol because of the heat. Rest as much as possible, and focus on drinking water and replenishing electrolytes throughout the day.
Lastly, and most importantly, enjoy every moment. Carnival passes by so quickly, and while you’re in it, you get the feeling it will never end. But once it’s over, you’ll find yourself reliving the moments when a fellow attendee helped you with your costume on the road, that time you made it through 24 hours with no sleep, or took in island views from the top of the Ferris wheel at the Village. It’s a magical, chaotic experience that requires your full attention and leaves lasting memories, making many wonder, “When can we do this again?”
Black Joy, Caribbean Culture, And Why I’ll Be Back
After my first Carnival experience, I often remember the freedom of dancing in the rain, celebrating with people I’d never met, and the joy of having this authentically Caribbean experience without needing a passport. St. Thomas Carnival is a great introduction to Caribbean Carnivals; it’s not as huge as Trinidad and Tobago, but just enough to feel the energy. Many visitors come for what they think are Carnival vibes, but at the core of the celebration is a friendly community that proudly displays its Caribbean heritage — a feeling every Black traveler should experience, and one I’ll definitely return to.
